LOMBOK SURFARI

This is a story about three friends. All of whom herald from the same small coastal town in Western Java, all of whom had fallen under the spell of surfing. A spell cast by those first surf pioneers who roamed the southern coast of Java looking for waves during the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s. It’s a small knit community in their town in paradise. Full of people who rely on each other for everything. A place where they shared what little they had. For these three, and a handful of others who aren’t the focus of this yarn, that included the first surfboards they’d managed to acquire through travelers either from breakage or gifts. Their town was fortuitous enough to be on the map for the water magicians who passed through. Blessed with a wave that’s now something of an international attraction. But that’s not the focus of this story either.

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Blog posts

surfing trip
Late season swell – A surf story.
Mon, Sep 07, 20

Late season swell – A surf story.

It was about a week out that we saw a swell headed our way. It appeared as a big red cloud of potential creeping up the west coast of Australia and our first thoughts were to see if we could position ourselves between it and where it was to crash on the Ba...

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events surfboards surfing
SURFLOVE @Deus Zurich
Tue, Aug 25, 20

SURFLOVE @Deus Zurich

Who would have ever thought that the surfing community in Zurich was so large even though we are so very far from the sea? It was a day full of joy and dedication to the lifestyle of surfing. Likeminded people, who came together to celebrate the simple lov...

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events surfing
surfing trip
Lombok Surfari
Tue, Mar 24, 20

Lombok Surfari

This is a story about three friends. All of whom herald from the same small coastal town in Western Java, all of whom had fallen under the spell of surfing. A spell cast by those first surf pioneers who roamed the southern coast of Java looking for waves du...

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films motorcycles surf surfing
REMEMBERING RINCON
Mon, Mar 23, 20

REMEMBERING RINCON

The one day trip up the coast; undervalued, overlooked, and often taken for granted. It's the simplest form a road trip, and a staple of the surfing community.  Usually the easiest decision we have to make. But why do we pack the car to the brim, wade in ...

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events surfing

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BLACKBOY: a portrait of Deni Firdaus
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A Week Up West
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Black Rain
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